Sunday, May 12, 2013

How to install lips ( Bibs ) in a Musky bait?

I received an E-mail asking how to install lips in a musky bait. First, the process is whatever you want to make it, there are no right or wrong ways to make baits. It really becomes, what do you want to create.

I have made lure lips with aluminum and Lexan, wire through the lip and lip directly glued into the bait. The lip glued directly into a lip slot has been the main stay. This means the line tie is in the nose of the bait not into the lip. Each produces a different result. You need to know what you want in action and depth before you start. If you are using true through wire construction and are making a line tie in the lip, you have to install the lip and wire at the same time.
 After you have determined line tie placement, action and depth, you now have the angle you want  for the lip. The most used angle for Muskie lures is a 45 degree, my opinion. Use whatever material and thickness you desire. Just make sure you have this factored into the weight and balance of the bait. Our lips are predominantly 1/4" Lexan.
When Frank and I started, we were making a knock off of a lure that just wasn't constructed very well., this in it's self gives you all the information you need. Simple, Simple, almost. Our goal was to make it better!


The process for us, was to cut a lip slot into the blank, while it was still square. We have a radial arm saw and this needs a flat, square surface to be accurate. If the slot is not square to the body, it is not going to run right. The lips them selves may be purchased from a few different places. We decided to make our own. Frank made up a tool, using a die grinder and a laminate bit to cut patterns from a die of the lip we use. Cutting lips is the most fun ever! If you can afford it, just buy them. You do have to match the lip thickness to a blade if you are using a power saw, you want just enough room to apply the correct thickness of adhesive. In the beginning this was epoxy, now we have been using Gorilla glue. The stuff is really as strong or stronger for this application.
After every thing is completed, cutting,shaping,sanding the lip goes in. Some folks like to wait until after paint, we have been installing lips before primer, just our way. You have to remember we normally produced 60 to 120 baits at a time, when there were four of us doing it. Now day's it is Frank and me. 
There are wood racks to hold the baits for this process, we call them hotdog boards. They look exactly what it sounds like, These are also used when the through wire belly slot get's filled with epoxy.
   
Whether it be aluminum or plastic the lip area that is in the lure get's scuffed. If it is a through wire bait, you may have to notch the lip for the wire. Drill a hole at the bottom of the cut, same size as the cut is going to be. You do not want a square end cut at the bottom of your cut. This will lead to a cracked lip later.
We have also made a few different lip jigs over time. These are about 14" long, 2" tall and only as wide as a lure. The front has a fixed 45 degree angle plate, except for one that is movable for different lip angles.
When we start to install lips, they all get marked with center lines. This  becomes helpful in the jig we are using to center the lip in the bait. All this is done to try and make the lip attachment as straight  as possible.

There are probably more people who glue the lip in after paint than before paint and cut the lip slot in with a hand saw. It all works. No matter what product you choose to adhere the lips to the bait, remember to leave room for it. There is a minimum film thickness for any adhesive to bond properly. If you have to pound the lip into the slot, it is to tight! The installation process can be whatever you want it to be. The alignment of the lip to the bait is the important part.  This is a simple box design idea. Shrink these sizes down to accommodate your baits.

Take four 3/4" x 2- 1/2" hardwood boards. You need two for the sides, one for the bottom, and one for the angle. On a fixed table type saw, cut a 22-1/2 degree angle on the ends of two pieces. On these two, find and draw a center line, cut it in lightly if you can. This becomes the center line of your bait and lip when you are installing it. Figure out the thickness of your bait, you want this snug, not tight. Now split this dimension on the center line for the bottom piece. Depending on the bait and lip type, you may need to hold the sides back from the front edge. Set a bait on it and determine where it should start. The lip should just touch the edge of the 22-1/2 degree angle.  Pre Drill holes and secure the three pieces together, from the under side of the bottom piece.Two inch screws would be best for this. Now determine how long of a board you want for the angle, this is what the lip will be resting on. Cut to size, glue and attach to the other angle
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At the end of the hotdog board link, there is a shot of the lip jigs. These jigs can be made adjustable, by creating slots in the attachment points. Any kind of material works, as long as it can maintain it's squareness.
   

( Keep it in the Water )
        

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