tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22361756118866850452024-03-13T09:50:46.498-05:00Ricks Musky Bait BuildingMuskie Lures from the Garage.
The basics on Custom Musky Lure Construction and Finish. From Wood baits and Bucktails to Big Tens and Flashabou. Cranks and Spinner Baits to Trolling and Twitching Baits.Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-48125530412748109842013-10-06T12:49:00.000-05:002013-10-06T13:52:49.155-05:00A few 16" perch bodied trolling baits.<b>As time goes,</b> I was able to finish up the four 16" perch baits from 2011. They are a mix of green, black and copper<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/04/variegatedsilver-and-gold-leaf-part-2.html"> variegated leaf,</a> along with gold and silver. The black outline was free hand. I just keep trying to do more in the free hand style, so I can learn how to paint. <b>Good, bad or indifferent. </b> <br />
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One thing that I have noticed, is that the leaf and or foil achieves a flash that is almost impossible to get with just paint. Even with the Kandy colors over it, it still reflects light better than just paint. The little extra effort to apply foil or leaf is minimal compared to what is gained in the finished result.<br />
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Left is green variegated. Right is copper variegated</div>
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Left is copper variegated. Right is black variegated.</div>
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Two worm tails, two flashabou. </div>
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The second picture from the top, green silver bait, has two line ties. I made the <b>traditional nose tie and a line tie in the lip/ bib, all thru wire. </b>I just want to be able to see what really changes in action and depth, if anything?<br />
The magnum flashabou tails, are an attempt at something different. They do look great in the water! <br />
These are tied just like you would tie a spinner, except it's on a hook.<br />
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Some magnum flashabou spinner baits</div>
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Three light tied flashabou spinners.</div>
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Three heavy tied flashabou spinners.<br />
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There is a mix of light, medium and a little thick flashabou on these tails. So far I prefer the medium thickness in the water. It is a different movement than the bait and has good flash in sun light. I like this on casting and trolling lures.</div>
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Nokies with light flashabou tails. <br />
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<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/03/hard-plastic-for-2013.html">Two Jakes, a few Nokies and some Mag Shads. </a><br />
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The batch. <br />
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( Keep it in the Water )<br />
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<br />Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-80442069586795135492013-08-25T08:03:00.000-05:002013-08-31T05:50:00.433-05:00Adding More Weight 2013.Well I finally managed to find some time , and get to adding the extra weight to the 6" jerk / gliders and cranks from last year!<br />
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This is the batch, plus a few other small cranks not in the photo.</div>
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If you recall the Aspen baits from <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/06/musky-bait-build-june-and-ready-for.html">last year</a>. I weighted these to what I was hoping was neutrally buoyant, using the <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/putting-weight-in-lure.html">Archimedes Dunk test. </a>This was accomplished with the baits sealed but no paint. Evidently my calculations were off enough so these baits did not work. Now, knowing that all are very close to neutrally buoyant, I weighed the completely finished lure, then added weight to get to the desired buoyancy in a bucket of water. I was using some small string like lead , wrapped on the hooks. This also allowed me to move the weight from hook to hook, to see if it would be better placed at the front, back, or middle of the bait.<br />
I think the placement of weight is as critical as the weight itself, for jerks and gliders. These went from 2 to 4 grams. This is not a lot of weight, but it made a big difference. A few did turn into sinkers, but the sink rate is so slow it really works well on jerks and gliders.<br />
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OK, back to it. I had the amount of weight to add, so I stripped the bait of hardware, weighed it again and added the amount from the weight test. You are drilling a hole in the finished bait to do this. Pour the lead in, seal the spot with some epoxy and touch it up the best you can. The fish will not care.<br />
Until I can really fine tune the process better before paint, this is were I am at. The end result is they work well, <b>now</b>!<br />
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( Keep it in The Water )<br />
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Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-68486606268199546012013-06-30T17:17:00.000-05:002013-06-30T17:17:03.449-05:00Ready for first run to Green Bay Wisc.Well, as I had said, I am looking to do a little more fishing this year rather than making baits. The foil and leaf lures that <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/04/goldsilver-and-varegated-leaf-baits.html">I made over the winter </a>are done and we are going to Green Bay for the Fourth of July. This is a good start for us, even though weather has delayed where Muskie should be about now.<br />
There has been a lot of cool temperatures and an over abundance of rain. <b>We are going</b>, and will make the best of it.<br />
These pictures are of the finished baits I worked on over the winter and a few Magnum Flashabou tails I tied up today in preparation for, <b>I have no idea </b><b><b>what to expect fishing!!!</b></b> The Nokies, Jakes and Mag Shad will stay home until later in the year. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small Magnum Flashabou tails</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjJt91EGCf4/UdChR34PhtI/AAAAAAAAB40/nNV8X_oy7xg/s1600/100_1098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjJt91EGCf4/UdChR34PhtI/AAAAAAAAB40/nNV8X_oy7xg/s320/100_1098.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Three more of the same</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYXlwrh9jJ8/UdChSbHKC4I/AAAAAAAAB48/QymVdrazHJs/s1600/100_1099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYXlwrh9jJ8/UdChSbHKC4I/AAAAAAAAB48/QymVdrazHJs/s320/100_1099.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A few leaf Nokies</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-upSPuVperlg/UdChSvHfStI/AAAAAAAAB5E/87cVKAYUwLY/s1600/100_1100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-upSPuVperlg/UdChSvHfStI/AAAAAAAAB5E/87cVKAYUwLY/s320/100_1100.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A couple of Nokies and Mag Shad</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lX1MHgzAFmE/UdChUNbVOqI/AAAAAAAAB50/8aJcGzhk5WU/s1600/100_1103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lX1MHgzAFmE/UdChUNbVOqI/AAAAAAAAB50/8aJcGzhk5WU/s320/100_1103.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Two 10" Jake's in Prism tape</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F4eFH8yOYdI/UdChUi5AirI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/408OLJ6SGJw/s1600/100_1104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F4eFH8yOYdI/UdChUi5AirI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/408OLJ6SGJw/s320/100_1104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Batch of 6" shad</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Same different angle</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQs9-iruyWg/UdChVcXO50I/AAAAAAAAB5k/xtfe1Tjfngk/s1600/100_1106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQs9-iruyWg/UdChVcXO50I/AAAAAAAAB5k/xtfe1Tjfngk/s320/100_1106.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Same</b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b> </b></td></tr>
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None of the baits/lures pictured here or even from last year, are of the quality that I would normally turn out to satisfy myself, but I am sure they will satisfy a Musky.<br />
As with the pictures of <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-few-hard-plastic-in-leaf-from-frank.html">Franks lures in leaf</a>, take your time and be diligent and you can achieve near perfection! <br />
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( Keep it in the Water)Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-65644632527057582932013-05-12T08:05:00.000-05:002013-05-12T08:10:26.907-05:00How to install lips ( Bibs ) in a Musky bait?I received an E-mail asking how to<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/02/muskie-lip-bib-building-decisions.html"> install lips in a musky bait</a>. First, the process is whatever you want to make it, <b>there are no right or wrong ways to make baits</b>. It really becomes, what do you want to create.<br />
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I have made lure lips with aluminum and Lexan, wire through the lip and lip directly glued into the bait. The lip glued directly into a lip slot has been the main stay. This means the line tie is in the nose of the bait not into the lip. Each produces a different result. You need to know what you want in action and depth before you start. If you are using true <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/02/musky-baits-thru-wire-construction.html">through wire construction </a>and are making a line tie in the lip, you have to install the lip and wire at the same time.<br />
After you have determined line tie placement, action and depth, you now have the angle you want for the lip. The most used angle for Muskie lures is a 45 degree, <u>my opinion</u>. Use whatever material and thickness you desire. Just make sure you have this factored into the weight and balance of the bait. Our lips are predominantly 1/4" Lexan.<br />
When Frank and I started, we were making a knock off of a lure that just wasn't constructed very well., this in it's self gives you all the information you need. Simple, Simple, <b>almost. </b>Our goal was to make it better!<b></b><br />
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<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/01/ricks-right-spring-is-near-by-frank.html"><b>The tools you have will set the stage for how you proceed. </b></a></div>
The process for us, was to cut a lip slot into the blank, while it was still square. We have a radial arm saw and this needs a flat, square surface to be accurate. If the slot is not square to the body, it is not going to run right. The lips them selves may be purchased from a few different places. We decided to make our own. Frank made up a tool, using a die grinder and a laminate bit to cut patterns from a die of the lip we use. <b>Cutting lips is the most fun ever!</b> If you can afford it, just buy them. You do have to match the lip thickness to a blade if you are using a power saw, you want just enough room to apply the correct thickness of adhesive. In the beginning this was <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/03/installation-of-lips-bibs-for-baits.html">epoxy</a>, now we have been using Gorilla glue. The stuff is really as strong or stronger for this application.<br />
After every thing is completed, cutting,shaping,sanding the lip goes in. Some folks like to wait until after paint, we have been installing lips before primer, just our way. You have to remember we normally produced 60 to 120 baits at a time, when there were four of us doing it. Now day's it is Frank and me. <br />
There are wood racks to hold the baits for this process, we call them <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/04/bait-building-rattles-and-slot.html">hotdog boards.</a> They look exactly what it sounds like, These are also used when the through wire belly slot get's filled with epoxy.<br />
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Whether it be aluminum or plastic the lip area that is in the lure get's scuffed. If it is a through wire bait, you may have to notch the lip for the wire. Drill a hole at the bottom of the cut, same size as the cut is going to be. You do not want a square end cut at the bottom of your cut. This will lead to a cracked lip later.<br />
We have also made a few different lip jigs over time. These are about 14" long, 2" tall and only as wide as a lure. The front has a fixed 45 degree angle plate, except for one that is movable for different lip angles.<br />
When we start to install lips, they all get marked with center lines. This becomes helpful in the jig we are using to center the lip in the bait. All this is done to try and make the lip attachment as straight as possible.<br />
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There are probably more people who glue the lip in after paint than before paint and cut the lip slot in with a hand saw. It all works. No matter what product you choose to adhere the lips to the bait, remember to leave room for it. There is a minimum film thickness for any adhesive to bond properly. If you have to pound the lip into the slot, <b>it is to tight! </b>The installation process can be whatever you want it to be. <b>The alignment of the lip to the bait is the important part. </b>This is a simple box design idea. Shrink these sizes down to accommodate your baits.<br />
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Take four 3/4" x 2- 1/2" hardwood boards. You need two for the sides, one for the bottom, and one for the angle. On a fixed table type saw, cut a 22-1/2 degree angle on the ends of two pieces. On these two, find and draw a center line, cut it in lightly if you can. This becomes the center line of your bait and lip when you are installing it. Figure out the thickness of your bait, you want this snug, <b>not tight</b>. Now split this dimension on the center line for the bottom piece. Depending on the bait and lip type, you may need to hold the sides back from the front edge. Set a bait on it and determine where it should start. The lip should just touch the edge of the 22-1/2 degree angle. Pre Drill holes and secure the three pieces together, from the under side of the bottom piece.Two inch screws would be best for this. Now determine how long of a board you want for the angle, this is what the lip will be resting on. Cut to size, glue and attach to the other angle<br />
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At the end of the hotdog board link, there is a shot of the lip jigs. These jigs can be made adjustable, by creating slots in the attachment points. Any kind of material works, as long as it can maintain it's squareness.<br />
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( Keep it in the Water ) <br />
<b> </b> Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-30093364589485652122013-05-05T07:15:00.001-05:002020-11-21T20:14:30.280-06:00A few Hard Plastic in Leaf, from FrankThese are three of Frank's baits, he has a few more but this is what he had in leaf. I took pictures of the three to show how clean they look. Zoom in on this batch and then zoom in on some of <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/03/hard-plastic-for-2013.html">my leaf baits</a>.<br />
You will see that if you <u>sand the lure smooth</u>, <u>wait for the correct tack time</u>, work on <u>one at a time</u>, and be <u>diligent applying the Leaf</u> you can achieve foil quality without the hassle.<br />
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My description of hassle is just going by my experience with foil and leaf. Leaf will lay on and follow any contour or design you have on a lure, and is also the down side. With foil you can create a texture or design <b>in the foil</b>, and apply it. You do need to be careful not to rub the texture out of it when rubbing it done.<br />
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Along the same line as foil, leaf, and photo finishes any thing you want to apply to a lure is possible. I was browsing through the <a href="http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=25">Musky Outdoors</a> site and saw some really nice finishes in something called <b>Momi</b>.<br />
I did a little searching and so far, as I understand it, it is a stationary paper. Yes it was a foil type design.<br />
I will have to run some down and see what I come up with.<br />
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<b>Our Creativity is only limited to Our Imagination!</b></div>
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Have some fun and do something different. </div>
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( Keep it in the Water )<br />
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Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-30632857921825985982013-04-17T19:47:00.001-05:002013-05-05T07:15:53.985-05:00Variegated,silver and gold leaf. Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The second set of videos on using Leaf:<br />
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I am going to take a few lines here and explain a few things, I am not a guru or the man behind the curtain, </div>
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I just enjoy making baits. The Blog, pictures and now video, is just what I do, Good, Bad, or Indifferent.</div>
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I make contradictory statements about what I do, because it is a learning experience for me like anyone else.<br />
There are things that change as we progress through the learning curve. That is probably what keeps me going, learning, seeing something new or different that I want to try and make.<br />
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OK, enough there.</div>
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If you have not already gone through the members list and looked at what everyone has to offer, you are missing out on an opportunity for information and to expand a bit. There are a lot of really cool lures and thoughts out there, enjoy.<br />
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This is the second set of <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/04/goldsilver-and-varegated-leaf-baits.html">videos on using leaf on lures. </a></div>
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I have done leaf baits a few times already, but like a lot of things, the more you do, the more you tend to understand the product, limitations, and the process. On this batch I realized that the <b>tack time</b> is <b>critical to the finish of the leaf. </b>I have mentioned before that the gold leaf seemed to let the adhesive bleed through if it was not set. Well, the gold just shows it the worst. With this set of lures I did a silver first and it was still to wet, then one gold which was almost ready, then another silver. The third bait was set perfect, and the result was amazing .</div>
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The silver leaf looked exactly like a foil, very bright and laid on perfectly. There was a huge difference in the clarity of the leaf. </div>
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Doing four at a time is not what you want to do. Glue one up, wait for it to get close to tack, then glue another one and let it tack up while you are working on the first one. This is of course if you want to work on more than one at a time.</div>
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Seems like I hear my Father a lot " <b>Do as I Say, Not as I Do</b> "<br />
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If you are going to try some pattens, put the bottom or belly leaf on first, wait a day or at least 5 hour's. Then put your pattern on, this will be an overlay in areas and new in others, but will eliminated blank spots and bleed through.</div>
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It really is about information, use it as you will, at your own risk and maybe some interesting results.</div>
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Using the leaf products, is rather simple, if you do not try it you are missing out on some great looking baits that are really easy to accomplish. <b>Having fun at what you do, is what it's about.</b> <u>Catching fish on your creation is the perk! </u></div>
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( Keep it in the Water ) </div>
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Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-32934069800315570612013-04-07T18:33:00.001-05:002013-05-05T07:16:15.267-05:00Gold,silver and varegated leaf baits. Bonus Video!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well, coming to the end of the <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/03/hard-plastic-for-2013.html">plastic baits </a>that Frank and I had purchased over the winter. I opted to make the entire batch leaf and or aluminum foil. The video that is here, hopefully captures the idea of using gold and silver leaf. I will try an aluminum foil one next. The foil is not as forgiving as leaf and you do need to cut and fold with the foil, on a round lure. The flatter or more square a lure is the easier foil becomes.<br />
This is the batch<br />
If you can zoom in on the picture, you can see spots in the silver foil. These are a result of spraying with the Mona Lisa brand acrylic and sanding. I sprayed Envirotech after sanding, and this did not blend back in or coat the same . I would definitely use the<b> Mona Lisa Acrylic t</b>o coat the foil and leaf baits. It did not fog the finish like every thing else, and gives a coating you can scuff for paint, just a little pricey for the amount.<br />
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So that is the batch ready for some Kandies. I hope the videos show how to do it. </div>
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<b>This is my first attempt at a How To Video, so use the information you can extract and forget the presentation! </b><br />
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Back ground comments By Kathy. </div>
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<u>Background music by A.A. Bondy</u><br />
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<b>If you do have </b><br />
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Keeping as much of the leaf and foil is my goal, the Kandie paint will be the back and belly. Maybe a fluorescent belly ? You can see the flash the metals give to the lure in the video. This is under fluorescent light, I hope that you are able to in vision what this really looks like in sunlight,<b> it is a flash</b>.<br />
This is an easy way to give any lure some pizazz with a minimal amount of effort. Have fun!<br />
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( Keep it in the Water)Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-39254046704983884742013-03-10T09:00:00.001-05:002013-05-05T07:16:45.248-05:00Hard Plastic for 2013Well, it has been a while since anything new has happened here and I am sure that some of you picked up on the lack of post. Last year was a bust for me , as far as actual fishing. <b>The only Muskie I saw was a floater.</b> This is mainly due to very little <b>Time on the Water</b>. Which just so happens to be a very good book to read by Bill Gardner,<br />
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I have hundreds of lures, of which a couple hundred are ones I have made. The past few years I have been obsessed with the idea of only fishing with my bait's. This then spiraled into the need for different types of bait's. So I started making more, and different types of lures. Now I have even more bait's.<br />
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So, at the end of last year I decided that I would take the hand full of lures that did not run right, for what ever reasons and tweak them. This would minimize time working on baits and lend more time to actual fishing. These lures are mostly the small jerks and gliders from last year. This will entail some better weight positioning and line tie adjustments. I have my plan for 2013. <b>More Fishing!</b><br />
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<b>Then,</b> Frank finds the hard plastic body blanks from <a href="http://www.tackleindustries.com/">Tackle Industries</a> and <a href="http://www.lurepartsonline.com/">Lure Parts on line</a>. This is partially due to trying to save some time for fishing and yet still create something unique for yourself. I enjoy making the wood lures and the action that comes from the wood, but I think both Frank and I will enjoy a little more Time on the Water.<br />
Now we both have about 24 hard plastic bodies, unpainted. <b>Not fitting into my plan very well?</b> I put a few together for our last outing and I really like the action on them. <u>They are all proven baits to start with</u>, just had to convince my self. So, in trying to figure out how I could minimize the time I put into these baits.<br />
I decided to foil all of them. The pictures are a few all ready started. My thought is to use a very thin line of color on the backs, light candies for highlight and a thin line of color for the bellies. Most will probably be aluminum foil with a few <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/varigated-siver-and-gold-leaf-finishes.html">Leaf </a>and the candies used to change the tone. I should be able to have them all foiled and ready to paint by the time it's warm enough.<br />
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<b>Note: we live in Illinois</b> and build our lures in the garage.<b> </b>Weather is not our friend!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">11" Mag Shad, 9" Nokken and 10"Jake</td></tr>
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I picked up a small box of Amazing Clear Cast at Hobby Lobby ( original formula and probably old ) but I want to see if it will coat the foil without hazing it. This will also give a good protective coating to the foil, I hope!<br />
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Keep it in the Water<br />
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Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-630429372474750292012-09-08T18:41:00.000-05:002012-09-09T16:45:02.788-05:00Last run of lures for 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well we managed to get <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/08/third-batch-2012-muskie-baits.html">one more batch</a> in. Frank felt he needed more baits, so I finished a couple more for myself. A couple of pictures of the same baits ,different angles to show the tape colors.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lures and tail hook dressing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More of the same</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something different</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More tail hook blades</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear hook worm barb</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another rear blade</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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We have been fishing with dressed rear hooks from just about the beginning. I put a lot of confidence in the idea and have hooked quite a few muskie on the rear hook only. At the very least it needs a worm, that's where the second to last picture comes in.<br />
In the past I would bend a light gauge wire in half, run it through the eye of the treble, down the shank, bend the tag end back onto the shank and wrap it with thread. The free end, which is extending out a little further would then get a loop bent in it. I would then use the Hitch Hiker ( worm spring ) to attach my worms.<br />
I prefer this method rather than what is in the picture. To me the jointed connection gives the trailing worm it's own action separate of the bait and not just a squirmy flat piece of rubber.The picture is of what I came up with trying to eliminate wright. It is the same gauge wire but it is bent in half, ran through the eye, down the shank and then twisted, kind of like a haywire twist. Pick the length you want clip it off and bend the two tag ends back for the worm keeper.This eliminated the thread wrap and the Hitch Hiker, which will all play into letting me put some hair on the rear hooks. This is so simple and fast I can't believe I didn't think of it before.<br />
The rear hooks with blades came from seeing the two tag ends and thinking,<b> why not</b>. This will probably be too much weight for my baits but I want to see how they work. <br />
<b>Things to consider:</b><br />
Deer hair works with just about anything and doesn't absorb much water.<br />
Marabou unless very fluffy looks like a worm when it's wet and soaks up water, also likes to stick to worms.<br />
Flashabou, Mylar very light, no water retention, but will tie a worm up.<br />
Chicken feathers,( hackle ) very light. very little water retention and you really only need a few.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some 2012 all dressed up</td></tr>
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This is the remainder with tails and a few bucktails rejuvenated, I wanted to take with. A couple of big tens and a few # 8 Fluted Colorado. With the exception of one double prop top water, everything is something I have made right down to my leaders. Goal accomplished, no store bought baits this year.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All dressed up</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same as above</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few old bucks turned into new ones </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same as above</td></tr>
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( Keep it in the Water )<br />
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<br />Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-62109722366132923692012-08-25T06:18:00.000-05:002012-08-26T05:20:13.325-05:00Third batch 2012 Muskie BaitsThis is six pictures, three each of four baits. I kept all six to try and show the different look of the prism tape, hope you can get something from it. These are 10" thru wire.<br />
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I might be able to get one more batch done, which are a few of the 3/4" aspen. Then it is prep work to actually go use them!<br />
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( Keep it in the Water )<br />
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<br />Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-1657317033674115302012-08-16T17:00:00.000-05:002012-08-17T04:49:55.759-05:00Second Batch 2012 Musky BaitsWell, this bunch is a little better than the<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/08/the-first-finished-muskie-baits-for-2012.html"> first batch</a>. If I was dipping these in Envirotech they would really look sharp. But I pushed the edge on weight, going for <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/07/musky-baits-in-primer-and-tape.html">neutrally buoyant </a>and can't afford to add any more. <br />
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I still haven't found the right edge to use when trimming the prism tape on the 3/4" baits. These are a full round over for the sides and I still don't care for the line it takes when cutting the tape.<br />
The little gold guy in the first pic and the one walleye looking guy in the last pic are 3/4" baits. I had messed up the tape on the two walleye and just used some Kandy to put some life back into them.These were a couple of the first that I was clearing with Envirotech spray and sanding to loose the tape edge. The Envirotech spray has always been good to me, except this time. Could have just been the temperature and humidity but it wasn't getting clear, always left a haze. I will try some more later on. <br />
The coolest part about using the tape for me is, the ability to use a Kandy ( transparent paint ) to add, change, blend and enhance any color of tape you choose.<br />
The top pic with the yellow looking bait and the second pic with two yellow looking baits is the chartreuse tape. It goes from solid chartreuse to yellow to a pearl green blue, very nice stuff. <br />
Hopefully I can get a another batch done this Sunday. <br />
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( Keep it in the Water ) <br />
Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-35694249275170591862012-08-12T06:20:00.000-05:002012-08-13T05:01:13.736-05:00The first finished Muskie baits for 2012These are the <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/07/2012-nine-read-for-clear.html">first in my batch</a> to get cleared out. I am still working on a set of stencils for gills and a fin, along with how to spray them. This batch I tried to detail the areas with a Sharpie, probably should have left them alone. I don't believe the detail catches more fish, but it is fun to play around with it and really helps to understand how to use the airbrush. <b>By no means do I claim to know how</b>, but I do enjoy doing it.<br />
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The last two are of the3/4" aspen and pretty rough, but the green one has the mirrored silver and the prism silver on the blue. I used a scale look tape ( clear scale tape ) from <a href="http://www.mooreslures.com/">Moore's Lures</a> to try and salvage the baits. I wasn't to happy about it when it showed up and was a pinkish pearl. The tape is like the hologram scale type, very thin and flexible. I wish I had bought more, it is pretty cool tape. Even though it appeared to be pink, it takes on the colors of the bait. Now all I have to do is decide which baits will use the rest of it. This tape would work well over a paint job and have a very thin tape edge.<br />
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( Keep it in the Water )<br />
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<br />Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-19412196134713245272012-07-22T16:06:00.000-05:002012-07-26T05:00:30.377-05:002012, Nine ready for clear<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>I took new photos to help ease my mind, enjoy.</b><br />
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The tape we are using is a lot thicker than foil or leaf. You can see from the pictures that there is a definite edge. You can spend the time to soften this with multiple coats of clear and sanding, if you chose to spend your time that way. I have been there and done it, looks cool but not worth the time for this batch. Hopefully the Muskie Gods will forgive me! For those who may think it sloppy, evidently you have more time than I do.</div>
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This batch is for fishing, not personal critiquing. Use the knowledge you gain. Good or Bad.</div>
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As I have said before, I am not a photographer. I wish I could do justice to how this tape really looks. Maybe Frank will get some <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/07/muskie-baits-paint-tape.html">real photos</a> going. But anyway, it is cool to say the least. These are the first nine ready for clear. Seeing that I am unable to show the real value of the tape, the solid chrome is mirror chrome, the solid gold is mirror gold and both are a real mirror finish. The green and chartrues are prism, that pulls in colors of the bait. This is also the same for the one that looks orange to chartrues in the pics. <br />
I have no data to back it up, but I think all tape will reflect U V light, if present. This tape is so reflective it is unbelievable. If there is a light source it will reflect it.<br />
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These are all in House of Kolor inter coat clear at the present, it gives me something other than paint to scuff before the real clear.<br />
If you look at the two lures in green tape, you can tell how the tape picks up the color of the baits and changes. These are both the same tape, just different light. As for what it does in the water, if the sun is out, it is wild. If there is no sun, it is green prism tape.</div>
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Now that UV coatings have arrived on the market and seems to be coming the rage in manufactured baits, slight delay from the original in 2006,??? I do not see a purpose, if you can reflect light and use hot colors when needed, it works. Not to say, a bright colored lure in clear water is bad, I do that quite a bit when the sun is out. </div>
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I am not a believer in the U V coatings being offered now days to enhance your lures color. I do believe in anything than can reflect light. Whether it be tape, foil or leaf, if it can reflect light it can reflect U V. I personally can't get a grip on something I<b> can't see </b>and something that can not be<b> proven or dis proven. </b>Any promo you see that depicts a <b>U V bait </b>and fish, the only thing that is different is the bait. If U V light changes the color of the bait, then why doesn't it change the color of the fish ????</div>
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On the same vain of thought, you can see so far all these baits are hot colored. I might do all 76 this way, the water clarity for Green Bay at the Fox river is <b>Zero.</b> The Bay is are intended target.</div>
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The chartrues, chartrues green, and light orange are my triggers along with rattles.The reflective tape is a bonus. This will pick up and reflect any visible light source. So I believe, U V included </div>
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<br /></div>Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-71388220224218676522012-07-15T17:55:00.001-05:002012-07-26T05:01:30.725-05:00Muskie Baits paint & tapeI already know that this should have started about a month ago , but as the world turns this is reality. We all do the best we can for the time we have . So as a quick note, these are a few I was able to get paint on in 92 degree, 58% humidity weather,<b> it's always fun. </b><br />
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These <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/07/musky-baits-in-primer-and-tape.html">musky baits</a> all have tape on them, the new chrome and gold tape is fantastic. This new tape is a lot thinner than the colored tape, and really lays down nice. It has the best flash that I have seen to date.</div>
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There are four baits ready for clear in the pics and the others with a white top and belly are ready for color.</div>
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When using the prism tape just remember, tape will not adhere to curves, keep it tight. If it buckles, bulges or creases it will be that way when it's finished. Any open or lifted edge will not work well in the end.</div>
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<b>Frank, </b>did a great looking<b> hot perch</b> and maybe he will <b>pull it from the vault and share</b> some pics. You can add it in here, if you would Frank.<br />
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I am not a photographer, as you can tell from the pics, but this tape is the ultimate if you are looking for flash. In solids or prism , you could not go wrong with using it. </div>
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There were a couple of memory lapses getting started , but I think we will get it on a roll quick enough.</div>
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I not sure, but we may have lost Al to back problems and <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/110434056756628251592/albums/5765537224692275793">Tom</a> finished all but three of his baits already.</div>
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So it appears that Frank and I are the slackers!</div>
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A little side note to all of this , we will be fishing dark water this year. A Canadian trip is out of the question for me . So the Great Lakes , Green bay is what are intent is, hence the hot colors, rattles and flash that will be created. You would be lucky to see something 2'-0" below the surface.</div>
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I wish they had Zander in the Great Lakes, they get huge.</div>
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<br /></div>Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-43239147681661608342012-07-04T08:04:00.001-05:002012-07-15T17:54:20.554-05:00Musky Baits in primer and tape<div style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;">
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Well I finally put them all in primer and just a few with some tape just to show what they will start to look like. There is also one perch photo finish over gold leaf. The extra time came in because, I decided to install all the eyes before paint. I chose to use the forstner bit and give the eye location a little relief. In the past we put the stick on eyes after paint, no drilled in spot. I didn't want to have to play around with the eyes after paint this time. I used stick on label dots to cover the eyes from paint and also tried a liquid mask. The dots work just fine and the liquid mask ( latex ) did as well , just takes more time to apply. The dots did wrinkle a bit, and I did remove them, clean the eyes from any primer and reapply new dots for the finish paint.<br />
Keep in mind that none of this needs to be done ,unless you are trying to get the best possible finish you can.<br />
I have not finished anything in envirotec as of late , just because of weight. Once I tank test this batch I will know if I can add any weight.<br />
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<b>Garage Baits </b></div>
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click on photo to enlarge</div>
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Everything was weighed using the <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/putting-weight-in-lure.html">Archimedes</a> dunk test and taken to the neutrally buoyant point. At the time, not all my eyes were in and I was giving 1 gram for eyes, 2 grams for paint in total and nothing for tape. The <b>majority of these baits will have tape on them</b>. Well the tape didn't amount to a gram, that is good. But the primer was between 2 and 3 grams. <b>Come on, how much could paint on a lure possibly weigh! Now I know. </b>I did make note off this in the bible and will see what the finish coats add in.This can all be rectified with some lighter hooks if need be, just wasn't my plan. I will fill the tank and test them out when all is done. <b>Sinkers or floaters! </b></div>
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The good news is, I have a few 3/4" aspen jerk - glide baits that this error in thought, will work ok with.</div>
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As for the Aspen baits, I will stick with Pine. The aspen was a bit hairy ( raised grain ) through out the process. The propionate always laid it down and smoothed it out but just not worth the effort if you have pine.</div>
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I will also be finished mixing the <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/04/update-to-bait-build-2012.html">propionate </a>with acetone. I don't care for the nature of acetone and I have used lacquer thinner a few times with equal or better results. Just a bit friendlier. We use Sunnyside and Squeak Kleen thinner a lot. </div>
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The tape jobs are prism tape, I think this adds the most possible amount of flash to a lure. Even with a 5" bait you can put a nice metallic flash into it. Normally I put the tape on the bait and trim it to size using a single edge razor. Hit the edge with some sandpaper, wipe it down with thinner and give it a couple coats of envirotex spray or a good acrylic. After that scuff with a pad and add color.<br />
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I have played around with gold leaf, foil and photo finishes a bit and other than trying to imitate a fish with a photo finish or a scale pattern with foil, prism tape is pretty easy for the flash you get from it. With Kandies<br />
( transparent paint) the tape can take on endless color changes.<br />
WTP, <a href="http://www.shopwtp-inc.com/">witch craft products </a>has a great selection of prism tapes. There is more than the red, green,gold and pink pearl scale patterns. </div>
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As a little update, it was 102 degrees and 40 percent humidity in the garage today , I made it to 3:00 and called it quits. The beer was getting warm before I could drink it!</div>
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( Keep it in The Water )</div>
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</div>Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-82752259124995258252012-06-03T14:26:00.000-05:002012-06-09T05:23:56.744-05:00Musky bait build, June and Ready for paint.<div style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;">
A few photos to see what was going on, from <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/putting-weight-in-lure.html">Archimedes</a> to <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/03/propionate-sealer-for-wood-muskie-baits.html">propionate.</a><br />
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There have been a few different things added and removed from the build this year. As you view the pictures you will see some of the new and the old.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OLmG2fRQYtY/T8ubJ0d3xkI/AAAAAAAABVQ/aA3zrvmogYA/s1600/100_0977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OLmG2fRQYtY/T8ubJ0d3xkI/AAAAAAAABVQ/aA3zrvmogYA/s320/100_0977.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: red;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>10" thru wire Grande</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_h5RfLCf_pY/T8ubKIv_AnI/AAAAAAAABVU/08pZQHxXqEU/s1600/100_0978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_h5RfLCf_pY/T8ubKIv_AnI/AAAAAAAABVU/08pZQHxXqEU/s320/100_0978.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">10" Extreme thru wire</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_cWbm5Q8u-w/T8ubKe8SR6I/AAAAAAAABVY/mUcfHwvKnZA/s1600/100_0979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_cWbm5Q8u-w/T8ubKe8SR6I/AAAAAAAABVY/mUcfHwvKnZA/s320/100_0979.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">10"Perch thru wire</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hwBkZ30Fa2I/T8ubKm8Jr4I/AAAAAAAABVc/Nku2TDIHqkI/s1600/100_0980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hwBkZ30Fa2I/T8ubKm8Jr4I/AAAAAAAABVc/Nku2TDIHqkI/s320/100_0980.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">14" Perch thru wire</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mYfVtRWMtzI/T8ubMZBmEHI/AAAAAAAABV0/5U9H8WbaI1g/s1600/100_0984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mYfVtRWMtzI/T8ubMZBmEHI/AAAAAAAABV0/5U9H8WbaI1g/s320/100_0984.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">6" Egret </span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fSzlrFmRXPs/T8ubL0LVYYI/AAAAAAAABVw/l-Rtp6sDn4g/s1600/100_0983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fSzlrFmRXPs/T8ubL0LVYYI/AAAAAAAABVw/l-Rtp6sDn4g/s320/100_0983.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: red;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>7"Extreme</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sw7Coh2eFd8/T8ubLqMC74I/AAAAAAAABVs/Ef_wV0WU68I/s1600/100_0982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sw7Coh2eFd8/T8ubLqMC74I/AAAAAAAABVs/Ef_wV0WU68I/s320/100_0982.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">6" Shore raider</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ceLIxQnQzCw/T8ubLGbjedI/AAAAAAAABVg/mLn4NTjfEwM/s1600/100_0981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ceLIxQnQzCw/T8ubLGbjedI/AAAAAAAABVg/mLn4NTjfEwM/s320/100_0981.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">14" Perch double line tie</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Tk2N-zdKcY/T8ubMjAjh1I/AAAAAAAABV4/qkm7o7bJjI4/s1600/100_0985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Tk2N-zdKcY/T8ubMjAjh1I/AAAAAAAABV4/qkm7o7bJjI4/s320/100_0985.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">7" Perch</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2wJd8ZgA8s/T8ubNLERSoI/AAAAAAAABV8/84JIbtXTIRQ/s1600/100_0986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2wJd8ZgA8s/T8ubNLERSoI/AAAAAAAABV8/84JIbtXTIRQ/s320/100_0986.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">6" jointed Shore raider</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Gbx9NOur-E/T8ubNQJxhII/AAAAAAAABWE/eAvipl5LwPM/s1600/100_0987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Gbx9NOur-E/T8ubNQJxhII/AAAAAAAABWE/eAvipl5LwPM/s320/100_0987.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">10" Bammer</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mA6iozrCt5Y/T8ubN16V2JI/AAAAAAAABWQ/WaCySWv6bE4/s1600/100_0988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mA6iozrCt5Y/T8ubN16V2JI/AAAAAAAABWQ/WaCySWv6bE4/s320/100_0988.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">3/4 aspen jerk - glide with worm screw</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7ZHgX3orxs/T8ubPgkbWkI/AAAAAAAABWk/JYvCMo0O5wg/s1600/100_0992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7ZHgX3orxs/T8ubPgkbWkI/AAAAAAAABWk/JYvCMo0O5wg/s320/100_0992.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">3/4 aspen jerk-glide drop belly with worm screw</span></b></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Z4KaSNT7b4/T8ubPO-hxZI/AAAAAAAABWg/Lcu1oxLM_Ys/s1600/100_0991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Z4KaSNT7b4/T8ubPO-hxZI/AAAAAAAABWg/Lcu1oxLM_Ys/s320/100_0991.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">3/4 aspen glide with worm screw</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0kjH4zdA_38/T8ubOToSJvI/AAAAAAAABWc/lkAs4LeJi4M/s1600/100_0990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0kjH4zdA_38/T8ubOToSJvI/AAAAAAAABWc/lkAs4LeJi4M/s320/100_0990.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">3/4 aspen drop belly glide</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pHJoxCYpvSw/T8ubOAzOqAI/AAAAAAAABWU/Z6teOus5pOg/s1600/100_0989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pHJoxCYpvSw/T8ubOAzOqAI/AAAAAAAABWU/Z6teOus5pOg/s320/100_0989.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;">3/4 aspen drop belly jerk-glide</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr style="color: red;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>3/4 aspen glide with worm screw</b></td></tr>
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The first, is the use of Gorilla glue for lip installs. I have stated this before but this urethane glue really holds and is clean. Frank, Al and Tom followed the rules and scuffed the lips before glue and install, I did not. There is no noticeable difference in strength. The amount of glue needed is minimal and cost wise is cheap. I also used it to install the screw eyes, some are tight and others I can turn. This application would probably be done better with their version of super glue. I think this is the result of not getting enough glue in the hole.</div>
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The second change for me , was using the Archimedes dunk test. I was a little ahead of the game last year when I ran across the <a href="http://www.tackleunderground.com/">tackle underground </a>article, after I had put my weight in. Which by the way is a great site for information and seeing what others are doing.</div>
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Anyway, I was able to use the dunk test and it was impressive, as to ease of use. The only thing you really have to do is, make sure the bait is sealed. If it is not <b>totally sealed,</b> once it is dunked it will soak in water as you are weighing it. This will result in an inaccurate weight</div>
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I took my batch to the edge allowing a little room for eyes and paint. I am looking to get as close to neutrally buoyant as possible. These crank baits will serve as, trolling baits, twitch baits and jerk baits.<br />
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Just so we don't have to keep guessing, we will take the time to weigh the baits before and after paint so we have a reference point in the future.</div>
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The third change for me was in <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/04/update-to-bait-build-2012.html">propionate.</a> I wanted a soaking verses a coating, and it worked quite well.</div>
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The soaking gives me a deeper seal and allows me to still tweak the bait with sanding. After every thing was completed, I used a paint brush to put a coating of propionate on the outside of the lure. I found that if you brush it on and keep brushing, propionate will coat the bait without brush strokes. In fact it leaves a rather smooth surface if brushed out. After that, a little 220 grit sanding and it becomes a really smooth finish.</div>
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A couple of other tweaks, were to install worm screws on the rears of the 3/4" aspen jerk/glide baits. Unless you are going to work these<b> very fast</b>, where a rattle would come into play. I opted for a soft tail.</div>
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The first few I did not cut the tail section, then I realized the tail of the bait needed to be cut flat to about a 7/16ths thickness. This allowed me to <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Z4KaSNT7b4/T8ubPO-hxZI/AAAAAAAABWg/Lcu1oxLM_Ys/s1600/100_0991.JPG">drill a 3/8" hole </a>with the forstner bit and glue in a #8 x 1/2" stainless steel sheet metal screw. I tapered the body to the tail section with sand paper and epoxied the worm screws into the drilled out 3/8" pocket. This let's the worm tail be relatively flush to the wood with no interruption to water flow. </div>
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The two worm attachments I made on the 14" perch are exposed drywall anchors, does the same job, but I like the little recces for the worm on the aspen baits better.</div>
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The only other twist, was making one of the 14" perch baits with both a body<b> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ceLIxQnQzCw/T8ubLGbjedI/AAAAAAAABVg/mLn4NTjfEwM/s320/100_0981.JPG">nose tie and a lip tie</a>.</b> I wanted to be able to see what the difference was within the same bait.</div>
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So a little more 220# sanding on the pine batch and weight for the aspen, I will be painting.</div>
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I have to get some more lips or make them for the rest of the aspen cranks. I didn't like what I originally got for them.</div>
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( Keep it in the Water ) </div>
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<br /></div>Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-90806921437246450092012-05-05T06:18:00.002-05:002012-05-06T05:36:33.177-05:00Pine Musky bait update TwoThe pine batch is ready for <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/putting-weight-in-lure.html">weight.</a> The lip install went relatively easy and clean on this batch.<br />
When Frank and Tom had installed their lips, we used a syringe and a wet rag to dampen the slot . The Gorilla glue is moisture cured, so there is a need to wet the surface before gluing. I had a small artist paint brush and decided to use it to moisten the slot. This worked out well and was very controllable. I also used a small flat blade screw driver to butter the slot in the bait with the Gorilla glue. You only need a small amount, it does expand 3 times of what is used.<br />
I would suggest that the lip slot be cut to hold the lip <b>without falling out</b>, but <b>not so tight </b>that you have to use pressure and wiggle it into the slot. This will allow for a good bond. Any type of glue or adhesive has an optimal film thickness in order to create a bond, you have to allow the space for this to happen. Gorilla glue is no different. The glue starts to expand almost immediately with the right amount of moisture. This process keeps the lip from sliding around . <b>You still have to baby sit them as you go. </b><br />
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The temperature was in the low 60s for the first batch and high 70s for the second. I noticed on the last batch that the glue was activating faster ( foaming ) and set quicker. We will see how it works on Al's lips.<br />
I do have some rather shallow slots in these baits for the lips, but this glue seems to really hold tight.<br />
On all lip installs, we rough up the surface area on the lip that is going to be glued. <b>This is a good practice,</b> but I did not. As of yet , I have seen no difference in bonding strength. With the depth of my slots , I feel the Gorilla glue is holding better than epoxy would. <br />
As I set and finished aligning one bait lip, I would go back and wipe the foamed Gorilla glue off the previous one. This keeps it a bit cleaner and less to sand later.<br />
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I did run a small bead of epoxy around the lip, where it meets the wood body. I don't know if it is needed, but for the extra strength it adds I think it is worth the time. This to was applied with a very small screw driver and 5 minute epoxy. </div>
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A few belly screw eyes some hooks and it's on to lead! </div>
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The eye locations are rattle chambers and will get epoxied in 3d stick on eyes. I prefer to have a small pocket to glue the eyes into and this works well. </div>
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<br />Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-20326424493379029012012-04-29T06:27:00.000-05:002012-04-30T12:32:30.496-05:00Bait building, rattles and slotWell, progress has been a bit slow but we should be able to start installing some lips ( bibs ) today.<br />
These are some pics of the rattle chambers and slot.<br />
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I think for the most part everyone is finished with rattles and have put in the front and rear screw eyes. We leave the hook hangers out until after lip installation. The jigs we have were made for 14" baits, so the hole for hangers are not there for the smaller ones.<br />
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My 10" baits are .<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/02/musky-baits-thru-wire-construction.html">052 wire</a> and the 14" perch baits I used .062. I am also adding a cut down worm tail to 2 of the perch baits using a plastic screw wall anchor. I will get some pics to show.<br />
We are also going to try using Gorilla glue on the lips. I did a test bait with some and it was impressive. With epoxy lip installs you can normally get the lip to crack loose by hand. On this, I had to put the lip in a vise and twist it from the tail of the bait to break it loose. This was in a 14" bait! <br />
I haven't had time to play much with the aspen baits but I will get going on them again.<br />
There are some added pics from the lip install. The Gorilla glue really seemed to hold well, and was a much cleaner install on the lips. Next they will get a bead of epoxy at the lip to wood area for extra strength. The jigs shown are a real help in aligning the lip, making it as true as we can get them.The hot dog boards are for holding the baits during different processes.<br />
The worm tail attachment was relatively simple also. The rear hook hanger was held in, as to allow a barb to be placed in the worm tail . This was with the thought of keeping the hook secured to the tail and not flopping around. Maybe it will pay off for all those following nippers, that love to nip the tails off. <br />
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( Keep it in the Water )Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-79331866300531140502012-04-08T08:27:00.002-05:002012-04-22T04:54:33.020-05:00Update to Bait Build 2012<b>A Propionate Soak.</b><br />
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In my attempt to stay a little ahead on the<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/04/musky-bait-build-2012.html"> build</a>, I needed to get my pine batch into the <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/03/propionate-sealer-for-wood-muskie-baits.html">propionate</a>. Time just wasn't working with me. I decided to break up the 36 pine baits into three separate jars, 10", 8", and 6". This entailed arranging the baits in the jars so they were submerged and weighted to stay there. Then sealed the jars. When time permitted I would open the jars and let them breathe. There wasn't a lot of room at the tops and I thought it would help in maintaining negative pressure in the jar to let the air escape ( burping).<br />
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I do not have a formula for the mix, <b>surprise.</b> I use the mix ratio once at the beginning and change it for my needs, that's where a thick and thin jar comes in. <b>This mix was closer to water than 2% milk,</b> some where in between I guess? I was looking for a penetrating soak, trying to seal the bait's not just coat them. <b>So as time permitted, 48 hours later?</b> I ran some temp screw eyes in and hung them up to dry. Once they dried out I did a quick dip in the same jars and let them dry. The next day I was able to sand them down. <br />
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As I was sanding, I realized that the consistency and feel of the propionate on these baits<b> ( you can see the difference between raw wood sanding dust and propionate sanding dust ) </b>was that of my baits from last year. Last years baits were soaked three times and coated three times? All tolled, about a day's work.<br />
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I am only looking to seal the pine wood bait's and think this worked well to do just that. I find no need to build a coating of propionate on the surface as we use a 2 part automotive primer for paint.<br />
If you are using propionate, <b>keep in mind the film thickness of a coating </b>and what you are trying to accomplish.<br />
A coating is better achieved with a little thicker mix, a soak a little thinner. I have not had a lot of success with the propionate as a clear top coat, nor have I put the time in to perfect it. There really isn't a wrong way of doing it. This just gave me the time to accomplish my task, with the same or better results.<br />
<span style="color: red;">Note.</span> Unless you like watching the air bubbles, you do not have to use glass jars. Just make sure what ever you do use doesn't melt from the acetone?<br />
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( Keep it in the Water )<br />
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<br />Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-49428930522591272162012-04-07T07:04:00.000-05:002012-04-07T18:04:46.444-05:00Musky Bait Build 2012<b>The Musky Bait build for this year has finally started.</b><br />
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It appears that we will be a man down, so Al has 80 some old baits and 20 new 10" to wrap up. We have been helping to get him caught up. Frank is in the 36 to 40 range. Tom is building 19 or 29 and I have 36 pine and trying about 30, 3/4"aspen on some drop belly, jerk, glider type baits. I haven't made any of these type before, just wanted to try a few. We will see how it works out?<br />
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We planed all of the wood down ,<b> just in case we need more baits to work with!</b> Cut them to size, slotted the lip and copied our patterns the first day.<br />
The blade we are using for the lip slot is a little light of an 1/8th inch, so after slotting we need to run a 1/8" drill bit thru the slot for the lips to fit. The bit follows the cut slot real well . <br />
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The earlier preparation in <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/02/muskie-lip-bib-building-decisions.html">lure type and lip patterns </a>paid off at this point. <br />
Second day in, was to locate and mark hook hanger locations, line tie and rattle chambers. Decide if you are using the eye location for rattles and or the body of the bait, along with how large to make the chamber?<br />
Then we started drilling and cutting out the patterns, along with shaping
the baits on the sander. Al still needs to shape his batch for this
year.<br />
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There are a lot of mixed thoughts on rattles and a lot of good articles explaining the idea. All ideas are good , if it puts Muskies in the boat!<br />
If you have one belief, then you are able to rationalize why the others aren't as good, you should keep an open mind . I prefer a little more of a deadened rattle verses a higher pitched one and will probably stick with one chamber in a bait.I have come to prefer the rattle in the body rather than the eye location, there is just more movement in the body area as the lure moves thru the water.<br />
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Frank and I will be using thru wire on the 10" baits, so they will need wire bent up. The rest will all be screw eyes. We will all be using 3D stick on eyes.<br />
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I had a chance to start routing the edges on my stock pile, but need to get a 3/8" round over for the 3/4" baits. The 1/4" round over works fine on them, I just want to make the drop belly glider type a little rounder.<br />
I get a kick out of it at this point. The wood is taking shape and becoming a fishing lure. <br />
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We also started a <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/03/propionate-sealer-for-wood-muskie-baits.html">propionate soak </a>going on Al's baits from last year. We didn't want to end up trying to dip 200 baits when it came time to do this years.<br />
You will see in the pictures we abandoned the glass jars for this. To many baits for jars. The pictures are from the second dip, we do try to cover the bucket to keep fumes down and ventilate as best as we can.<br />
The first dip was a bit over an hour, the second a bit over a half hour. When they came out off the bucket on the second dip, they were dipped in a jar of a little thinner propionate , then hung to dry.<br />
This is all pine wood with the exception of a small batch of aspen this year.<br />
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I did grab a 3/8" round over bit from the Depot, the 3/4" aspen are starting to look pretty cool!<br />
Still have to sand them down and drill for screw eyes and rattles.<br />
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In case you haven't guessed by now, I don't always follow the rules? I also got a soak in on my pine baits.</div>
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Music provided by Justin Somerville.</div>
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( Keep it in the Water )Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-91654870455419931182012-03-16T19:31:00.001-05:002013-01-24T22:50:40.599-06:00Propionate Sealer for Wood Muskie Baits - by FrankWood Muskie Baits need to be completely sealed prior to priming and painting. If you've read <span style="color: blue;">"<a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/01/ricks-right-spring-is-near-by-frank.html">Construction basics for Wood Musky Lures</a>" </span> - We'd suggested, after all the <b>wood working</b> (planing, cutting, drilling, shaping and sanding)<b> has been completed</b>,<b> it's time</b> to <b>seal the wood.</b><b>...</b><br />
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What you'll need to start:<br />
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* Propionate pellets.<br />
* Acetone - to dissolve the pellets. <br />
* Wide mouth jars with seal-able lids.<br />
* A method of submerging your baits - they'll want to float. <br />
* A method of hanging your bait's as they dry.<br />
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Steps to make and use <b>Propionate</b> as a <b>Penetrating Sealer </b>and a<b> Base coat</b>:<br />
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* <b>Jar #1</b> needs a ratio of <b>1 oz. </b>Propionate pellets per<b> 11 ounces </b>of Acetone<b>.</b> This may take 3 to 5 days to completely dissolve and Jar #1 will have the <b>consistency of 2% milk</b>. This is the mixture for <b>soaking.</b><br />
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*<b> Jar #2</b> needs a ratio of<b> 2 oz. </b>Propionate pellets per<b> 10 ounces </b>of Acetone. Again, this may take 3 to 5 days to dissolve (you can speed up this process by shaking the sealed jars, or stirring with an unpainted stick). This mixture will have the <b>consistency of warm thin honey</b>. This mixture is used to <b>build a tough base coat.</b><br />
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<b>Soaking/Sealer: Jar #1</b> - This thin mixture penetrates and seals the pours of wood, while also raising the grain. Start by submerging the baits for <b>30 - 60 minutes until you no longer see air bubbles coming out of the wood</b>. Remove the baits and hang to dry until all the vapors are gone, approx 30 minutes at the most. Lightly sand to a smooth surface, and soak again in Jar #1 for about 15 minutes, hang to dry about 15 minutes. Final and third soak until bubbles are no longer visible. Note: If your wood has bubbles on the surface after it's dry, then give it a light sanding before proceeding to Jar #2.<br />
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<b>Building a Base Coat:</b> <b> Jar #2 </b>- Dip baits in Jar #2 - swirl it around a couple of times and pull it out letting it drip back into Jar #2 - hang and allow to dry. Note: Fishing lures should be dipped alternating head first, then tail first, to create an even coat. After dipping as many times as needed (some prefer dipping 7 to 10 times) the baits are ready for scuffing and primer. <b>Please note: Minimal sanding or scuffing is required between coats</b>, just enough to smooth air bubbles or runs before the next dip. Acetone has the chemical properties to etch itself, so adhesion within multiple dips is constant.<br />
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This is the best way we've found to seal our baits, and so far, this has eliminated paint/finish failures.<br />
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<b>To purchase Propionate</b> - <span style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: x-small;"> David Beacham <span style="font-weight: bold;"><dbeacham@sc.rr.com> </span> <span style="font-size: small;">Email David Beacham for Propionate purchases. David includes instructions with every purchase.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">These are some <span style="background-color: #cfe2f3;">Propionate tips from David Beacham:</span></span></span><br />
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"New tips for Propionate...</div>
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I am now using one jar of thin and I keep
a jar of super thick just to add to the thin jar when needed. With the
thin jar I get better cover and a very smooth finish with just a few
extra dips. Drying time is faster and any bubbles that may be on the
bait will pop easier when it is removed from the jar to drip.</div>
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To make the super thick jar, I will just add about
1 part pellets and 4 parts acetone. This takes longer to dissolve but
it will stay ready to add to your thin jar any time you need a refill.
All you need to do is add about 1 part thick and about 3 to 4 parts acetone. Just a light stir will mix it in."</div>
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<b>Thanks for Reading,,, and best of luck this season!!</b></div>
<b style="background-color: lime;"><span style="background-color: white;">Frank</span></b><br />
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<b style="background-color: yellow;">Warning: </b><b style="background-color: yellow;">Acetone</b><span style="background-color: yellow;"> is </span><b style="background-color: yellow;">extremely flammable</b><span style="background-color: yellow;">, and </span><b style="background-color: yellow;">needs to be used safely,</b><b><span style="background-color: yellow;"> in a well ventilated area.</span></b><span style="background-color: yellow;"> </span> <b><span style="background-color: yellow;">Respirators should be worn while Soaking and Sealing baits!!</span><span style="background-color: yellow;"> Please,,,, Safety First!!</span></b>Frankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07521570111964497457noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-73655950353710891212012-03-11T07:48:00.000-05:002012-03-11T07:48:04.199-05:00Installation of Lips-Bibs for baits?Well , it sounds like Frank has the materials ordered to get started on this years batch. As soon as it arrives we will be <b>Building Musky Baits in the Garage.</b><br />
As with every year, a question on our procedures is brought up in an attempt to make and do the best we can. This time we are questioning on how we could do a better lip install?<br />
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<b>First</b>, a little history on the technique we have bee using.<br />
With the exception of last year, all our baits have been <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/02/musky-baits-thru-wire-construction.html">thru wire construction.</a> The lure body was slotted to except the wire. With that said, the lip was also slotted to allow it to be installed in the body around the wire. Our <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/picasa-slideshow.html">line ties </a>are at the noses of the bait , not in the lip.<br />
The wire would be inserted, lip epoxied in and the slot filled with West System epoxy, a <b>very fluid epoxy.</b><br />
This epoxy would seep thru the lip area and fill any remaining voids in the lip slot. This made for a very strong bond of the lip to the bait.<br />
After that had all set for a couple of days we would then apply a small bead of epoxy at the body to lip area.<br />
This was to ensure a good seal and bond of the <u>Lexan </u>to the wood. Similar to what a weld bead looks like. <b>This did not always turn out to be a <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/p/ricks-2011-baits-finished.html">clean lip installation. </a></b><br />
As<b> </b>in a professional look?<br />
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<b>So the questioned has been raised, </b>as to what we can do to make the lip installation better, <b>now that we are using screw eyes. </b>T<b></b>here is no slot in the lip and no West system epoxy to fill it.<br />
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We are looking for the strongest and cleanest installation of plastic <u>Lexan</u> lips as possible.<br />
Can this be a one step process or is it multiple steps?<br />
Should the lip still have a slot or drilled hole for the epoxy to grab onto? <br />
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All I have come up with, is to use the smallest amount of 5 minute epoxy to set the lip, let it sit for 30 minutes and then apply the bead at the body lip line. This timing arrangement would be, trying to get all epoxy to cure together as best as possible. Of course babysit the bait until the epoxy sets<br />
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<b>Any thoughts or suggestions on this would be appreciated.</b><br />
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I know we could be opening the "<b>secrets</b>" of the world here, but we are just trying to help others and ourselves to build lures with as much knowledge as possible.<br />
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( Keep it in the Water )Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-9939015997277903742012-02-25T15:19:00.001-06:002012-02-26T04:54:56.066-06:00Muskie Lip ( Bib) , Building Decisions<b>Where</b> to place the lip, <b>what angle</b> to use, <b>what type </b>and how <b>big or small </b>of a <b>lip</b> are all decisions that should be determined before we start cutting wood. This is with glued in polycarbonate type lips.<br />
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If you chose to use a metal screw on lip there is a little more latitude in timing. Even with a metal lip that is going to be installed in a slot, thought preparation in slot placement is necessary. I have not used a lot of screw on metal lips but they definitely have there place and are easy to use. If you think about it ,as you progress there are a lot of little quirks and preferences you will acquire, good and bad.<br />
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This is the selection of lips I will be choosing from to go with my bait <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/02/start-to-musky-bait-building-season.html">patterns. </a><br />
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My picks will all be an 1/8th inch thick. They do offer 1/16" and 3/16" but the selection of styles is limited. Unless you are cutting your own lips or custom order, I have not found a supplier for thicker lips with a variety of sizes to choose from in small quantities. The lips here are from the <a href="http://www.muskyshop.com/">Musk Shop. </a>There are metal and square lips also. Hit the link and you will be able to see all. <b>If you find a better source please let us know.</b><br />
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I have made several copies of my patterns and copies of the lips, <b>They are shown in actual size in the catalog. </b>Then I make and cut out hard paper copies to play with. I will figure out how I want a particular bait to act,<b> </b>slot the pattern and see how the lip size and placement looks.<b> </b>Doing this, helps me in the <b>visual aspect</b><b>.</b><br />
Once the pattern is selected I pick a lip for the type of action I am looking for. The angle is based off what you have or know. I have come to prefer a 45degree angle with both round and square lips.. <b><br />
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<b>If you are unsure</b>, take a look at your collection of store bought baits. Pull them out of hibernation and lay them out or hang them up. Use a sliding T bevel ( about $8.00 at the Depot) or your kids plastic protractor to find the angles being used. From that you will be able to decide on what angles you want based on knowing the action of the baits. Remember that <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/nuts-and-boltscondensed-version.html">bible</a>, this is where it comes in use. Hopefully you are making more than one bait, start writing done what you are going to do with each bait. Also think about sinking, floating and <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/putting-weight-in-lure.html">neutrally buoyant. </a><b> </b>You don't need to know right now but it can help with lip type selection, just make note of your intent.<br />
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Get some measurements on the distance from the nose of the bait to the lip. This will give you some benchmarks to refer to as your selection process continues. <br />
Same bait, same lip,same angle with the lip moved forward or backward from the original point will impart a different action. Some times this may be very subtle and others it can be drastic. I think large mass flat sided baits are influenced the most by this.<br />
The large 14" baits we make has a side to side flop, which is awesome but by moving the lip forward a 1/4" to 3/8" it changes the action to a tight figure eight wobble. Same everything except lip placement and you now have two completely different action. Normally, if we are going to change lip placement we only make a few, then see how they work.The lip angle has been tried with 40 degrees and 50 degrees, action was relatively the same and depth changed.<br />
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The depth of a lip inserted into the bait should be enough to secure it soundly but not deep enough to split it the first time it hits something. A lip protruding past the sides of a bait acts totally different than one flush to the sides. You really have to play around a little to see what you want to build. With a little practice a couple of errors and you can trim the sides of the lips to be flush with your bait. It's all about lines and accuracy at that point. It is a very doable task, if that is what you are looking for. <br />
Play around with some patterns and lips now, and you won't be spinning your wheels when it's time to build.<br />
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This is where I got to with my bait and lip patterns. Mite be some tweaking before wood , but I am ready.<br />
Now to figure out if I am going to do two or four of each. Just another decision!<br />
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( Keep it in the water )<br />
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<b> </b>Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-55787719211179307672012-02-19T05:53:00.001-06:002012-02-19T18:49:28.632-06:00Musky Baits: Thru Wire Construction<b>Through Wire or Screw Eyes?</b><br />
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This is one of many questions that need to be answered while preparing for this years Musky Bait Building Bash. Through Wire Construction means, if the bait was shattered by huge a Musky, you would still land the fish because the <b>twisted Through Wire secures the line tie and all the hooks together.</b><br />
Here is a little history that played part in our decision making.<br />
Frank and I'd met a Canadian resident in Georgian Bay named Blair, who fished primarily with F18 Rapalas because that was all you could purchase in Canada back in 1988. Blair had a mid 40" class Musky shatter his F18 yet he boated the fish because Rapala F18 balsa wood baits were made with Through Wire Construction.<br />
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The reality of most thru wire constructions that I've examined demonstrates some bait makers are using thru wire improperly, and only for the sole purpose of saying the bait has thru wire construction. I personally see no advantage to thru wire construction with unsecured open tag ends. To me this defeats the whole idea and security of thru wire construction. The Garage group has been using thru wire construction with twisted tag ends since we started making baits back in 2000. We choose to properly make thru wire secure with twisted ends, or use screw eyes! Why waste the time if you don't complete the task. In my mind, the twisted ends of the wire make it<b>,</b> <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/01/ricks-right-spring-is-near-by-frank.html">Solid Thru Wire </a>construction, otherwise it is just wire that can fail.<br />
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<b>Don't</b>, take what I am saying the wrong way. There are a lot of great baits and <b>Excellent Lure Builders </b>out there that use this technique without failures. It is a proven application. Thanks "Remey."<br />
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My first Muskie was caught on a 6" Crane Bait unmodified, 20lb mono and a spinning reel (with a great drag). It was an unbelievable 30lb 52" fish. The correlation here is, <b>I don't believe Crane uses twisted ends either</b>. Check out the <b>solid thru wire</b> link above and read what Frank was saying about the thru wire process we use.<br />
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As we'd posted earlier, last year was our first experience using all screw eye construction. The lure sizes were 5" to 10" rather than the 14" to 18", and we were looking to expedite the building process. I have used many a bait with screw eyes and to date, I've never had one come out or break. We used .072 screw eyes. I will say they're OK for five to seven inch baits, but any larger bait, I prefer the .092. The threads of the .072 are minute to say the best and I am not comfortable with how easy I can break them loose. The .092 thread just seems to grab so much better.<br />
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Each of these processes has it's a<b>dvantages</b> and <b>disadvantages</b>. Personally, I need to do what I am comfortable with, good or bad.<br />
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<b>Pros of thru wire construction</b><br />
A wire line tie is easier to tune than screw eyes.<br />
Split rings don"t become over sprung.<br />
With twisted ends, impossible to loose a fish. ( unless they eat your line ) or something else breaks.<br />
Twisted Thru wire leaves nothing to chance in a bait.<br />
It's just cool!! <br />
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<b>Cons to thru wire construction </b><br />
Thru wire construction adds quite a bit of time to the building process no matter how you do it.<br />
Thru wire cost more, when you make !0" baits or larger. <br />
Difficult adding weight once the wires been installed. <br />
If you have one offs, you are bending wire by hand, no jig.<br />
Muskie baits need .040 to .051 wire, this can be brutal at times, but much easier than .062<br />
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<b>Pros to .092 screw eyes.</b><br />
Cost effective.<br />
Location placement is simple.<br />
Ideal for adding lead weight to (Jerk Baits, Twitch Baits).<br />
Time to install is minimal.<br />
If one does break, you can add another.<br />
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<b>Cons to .092 screw eyes.</b><br />
They destroy most split rings. (Must use Bucher's or Wolverine's)<br />
Tuning is one or two attempts, then screw eyes get fatigued.<br />
Finding quality screw eyes.(most presses leave two indents at the bend in the eye) <b>fatigue,</b> in metal is bad.<br />
Drill hole, thread screw eye into hole, back screw eye out, add epoxy and then install screw eye. That is <br />
my method of installing screw eyes.<br />
Open eyes are better than closed eye, for constructing jointed baits.<br />
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This is intended to give a little insight to one of the many choices we have when building baits. By no means am I trying to bash anybodies work. What works for any one individual is best.<br />
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If anyone who uses screw eyes wants to send us a bait to beat up, please feel free to do so, drop a line and I will give you an address. Muskie season is getting real close?? <br />
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Thanks, to Frank on the co-edit..<br />
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( Keep it in the water ) Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2236175611886685045.post-70708312891683589042012-02-10T17:28:00.003-06:002012-02-11T06:15:08.497-06:00The Start to a Musky bait building SeasonWell, If we have our pictures and thoughts<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_706799699">. </a><a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/01/harper-musky-show.html">Harper Musky Show Photos and Patterns</a>. We should be well on our way with some designs. I have some from last year and a couple of new ones to add with the batch.<br />
These are in Picasa web albums also. Feel free to use them if you like.<br />
From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/110434056756628251592/Patterns2012">Picasa</a> you should be able to re size and use at your discretion. When you re size start by keeping the<br />
aspect ratio the same. I will use one pattern to figure out the settings I am looking for. Once you have a benchmark ,the others go a bit faster. You do need to print them out to see the actual size,<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kC2rp0DGtes/TzWNnF3XhuI/AAAAAAAAA8c/YD6x6aSZMAg/s1600/2010%2Borig%2B2%2Bpat.tif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kC2rp0DGtes/TzWNnF3XhuI/AAAAAAAAA8c/YD6x6aSZMAg/s400/2010%2Borig%2B2%2Bpat.tif" width="308" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YMnYGS0xVU8/TzWNmVqMaPI/AAAAAAAAA8E/K0T7i6okfCk/s1600/2010orig%2Bpat.tif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YMnYGS0xVU8/TzWNmVqMaPI/AAAAAAAAA8E/K0T7i6okfCk/s400/2010orig%2Bpat.tif" width="308" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NnA9sQCiMa0/TzWNmvMps5I/AAAAAAAAA8U/uEbpel3MsbY/s1600/2010orig1%2Bpat.tif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NnA9sQCiMa0/TzWNmvMps5I/AAAAAAAAA8U/uEbpel3MsbY/s400/2010orig1%2Bpat.tif" width="308" /></a></div>These are just cardboard patterns at this point, if what is here is excepted we will make wood patterns with them. It makes it easier to use in the processes going forward , rather than using the cardboard. <br />
What you see here has been drawn or traced from an existing bait and re sized to what we are looking for<br />
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Now I will figure out what kind of lips ( bills ) I want to put in the different shapes of bodies.<br />
You should<span style="color: #cc0000;"> take </span>some <span style="color: #cc0000;">time</span> at this point and decide where and how you are going to use the bait. This will help in deciding what<b> type </b>of <b>lip </b>you are going to use.<br />
Look at your collection of lures , think about what each bait does and then think about what you want your custom lure to do.<br />
You can make what ever you desire, at this time , we prefer flat sided baits verses rounded. This is just a preference. I will try to get the video we have of our 14" bait and post it. Then you will see why we like flat sides.<br />
After the patterns and lip selection, start thinking about weight. There are choices here, a deep diver you might want a little bit extra or not. I have been trying to get neutrally buoyant and hit it half the time. Lighter is better, <b>something I have yet to learn</b>. I did not get the opportunity to use the The <a href="http://ricksmuskybaitbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/12/putting-weight-in-lure.html">Archimedes dunk test,</a> but I will this year.When I master this technique I will be happy.<br />
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Even for a trolling bait , (other than a bottom grinder) I prefer something closer to neutral than not. A trolled bait at rest, just hovering or slowly rising is what I can in vision. <br />
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I want to go for about thirty baits this year, well maybe thirty five. You have to keep in mind , not all custom lures survive. Some turn into " Why did I do That" .Bottom line is to have enough to play with when the real fun starts, <b>PAINT.</b> Then grabbing the one , and putting it in the water for the first time. <b>It is truly a thrill</b>, one that I cannot shake to this day . I may be obsessed but I love it.<br />
If you are looking for more info or actual dimensions , drop a comment ,<b> we will get back to you. </b><br />
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( Keep it in the Water )Rick S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/08479725934018345646noreply@blogger.com0