Pine Musky bait update Two

The pine batch is ready for weight.  The lip install went relatively easy and clean on this batch.
When Frank and Tom had installed their lips, we used a syringe and a wet rag to dampen the slot . The Gorilla glue is moisture cured, so there is a need to wet the surface before gluing. I had a small artist paint brush and decided to use it to moisten the slot. This worked out well and was very controllable. I also used a small flat blade screw driver to butter the slot in the bait with the Gorilla glue. You only need a small amount, it does expand 3 times of what is used.
I would suggest that the lip slot be cut to hold the lip without falling out, but not so tight that you have to use pressure and wiggle it into the slot. This will allow for a good bond. Any type of glue or adhesive has an optimal film thickness in order to create a bond, you have to allow the space for this to happen. Gorilla glue is no different. The glue starts to expand almost immediately with the right amount of moisture. This process keeps the lip from sliding around . You still have to baby sit them as you go. 

The temperature was in the low 60s for the first batch and high 70s for the second. I noticed on the last batch that the glue was activating faster ( foaming ) and set quicker. We will see how it works on Al's lips.
I do have some rather shallow slots in these baits for the lips, but this glue seems to really hold tight.
On all lip installs, we rough up the surface area on the lip that is going to be glued. This is a good practice, but I did not. As of yet , I have seen no difference in bonding strength. With the depth of my slots , I feel the Gorilla glue is holding better than epoxy would.   
As I set and finished aligning one bait lip, I would go back and wipe the foamed Gorilla glue off the previous one. This keeps it a bit cleaner and less to sand later.

I did run a small bead of epoxy around the lip, where it meets the wood body. I don't know if it is needed, but for the extra strength it adds I think it is worth the time. This to was applied with a very small screw driver and 5 minute epoxy. 

A few belly screw eyes some hooks and it's on to lead! 

The eye locations are rattle chambers and will get epoxied in 3d stick on eyes. I prefer to have a small pocket to glue the eyes into and this works well.

( Keep it in the Water )